It’s been a few days and I still can’t quite believe how Legare is not at the top of every restaurant recommendation list.
This is a place drizzled with class; from every corner of its cosy dining area to a menu that’s low on quantity but mind-blowing in its quality. It is Italian cooking as it should be; simple and yet complex, a celebration of classic flavours mixed together with the knowledge of a nonna.
Food this good, and at this price, is a rare find in London nowadays.
The Vibe
Blink and you might miss Legare’s entrance. Such is its subtly, that it blends unassumingly into Shad Thames’ cobbled street under the shadow of Tower Bridge. The inside is just as subtle, a cosy dining space barely a few meters in each direction, with cream walls and wooden tables. I’m really not exaggerating, there’s really no space to spare here – even the freezer has been disregarded (though the space that saves doubles up as proof that all the dishes made here are fresh).
An arm’s length from your table the three chefs move busily around a kitchen so tight you can see each dish being prepared and the skill it takes to do it. It is nearly impossible to not find yourself staring at them in action. The calls of ‘Yes chef’ and the sizzling sounds of cooking food blend magically together, dragging you into the twilight zone between the mayhem of a kitchen and the tranquillity of a dining room.
The Food and Drink
There is a small and seasonally changing menu with just a few options per course, but the Michelin-approved chefs consistently dish out sensational food no matter how often it changes.
The steak tartare, infused with dijon mustard, capers, parsley, cornichon and press anchovies is an absolute miracle of a dish for anyone who likes an explosion of flavour; I mean this sincerely, that if I came and ordered only that, I would consider it an exceptional night out.
The cavatelli alla norcina is another dish that is executed beautifully and is a favourite of the guests and the staff for a reason. It appears simply made (sausage chunks cooked in chicken stock, butter, double cream and pecorino cheese), but the sumptuous texture and taste of the creamy sauce is an absolute masterclass in Italian cooking. Our waiter told us how, after every service is over, all the staff dip bread in the leftover sauce – such is its popularity.
Special mentions to the bruschetta and the grilled quail, both of which I had and were also excellent.
The desserts sadly didn’t quite wow me in the same way, which feels like an unjust barometer considering the quality of what came before. But seeing as the menu keeps changing, there is no chance that would impact me coming back.
The Value
Legare was justifiably awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand this year, the prestigious honour for excellent food at an affordable price. All considering, this is phenomenal value for how much you pay. Starters begin at £14 with primi plats (pasta) starting at £18, and secondi plats starting at £28, meaning you can have a Michelin-worthy starter and main for just over £30.
For all the restaurants I’ve visited, I cannot think of a place that offers a better experience, or better food for that sort of money.
The Service
If Legare is a love letter to Italian food, its staff are its writers. From the chefs who manage to work so quickly while somehow looking like they’re relaxed, taking their time perfecting each dish, to the waiters whose knowledge and passion for the food they are serving appear refreshingly genuine.
Things move quickly here, and it is a testament to their skill and ability to work together that, as a guest, you hardly realise that there is no kitchen behind the door. Everything is happening in front of you, and all of that (as well as all the people who make it happen), are, simply, world-class.
Oh yes chef, I’ll be back.
Sign up to our guide to what’s on in London, trusted reviews, brilliant offers and competitions. London’s best bits in your inbox
Disclaimer: The copyright of this article belongs to the original author. Reposting this article is solely for the purpose of information dissemination and does not constitute any investment advice. If there is any infringement, please contact us immediately. We will make corrections or deletions as necessary. Thank you.
