Notting Hill’s upmarket Turkish grill, The Counter, has reached something of a mythical status – whispers of a promised land filled with white chocolate babaganoush and almond-flaked lamb chops.
Now Kemal Demirasal, one of Turkey’s most aclaimed chefs, has opened his second London restaurant right in the middle of Soho.
But does the new venture measure up to its West London predecessor?
The Vibe
It might be new to Soho, but The Counter fits right in. It’s got that stripped-back, sexy look that can only be achieved with exposed brick and floor-length black drapes, while long cylindrical spotlights hovering over each table set the mood (and provide perfect photo lighting).
And the Soho buzz isn’t missing either – on the busy Thursday night we visited, diners had spilled out of the chic restaurant and onto its Kingly Street terrace.
The Food
In both branches of The Counter, the food is inspired by ocabkasi – a traditional Turkish method of open fire grill cooking – and heavy on the olive oil, sumac and pistachio.
But the new Soho opening is more Aegean than Anatolian; you can still get your lamb slow-roasted or ground up in neat kebab parcels, but this menu’s heroes are plump red prawns glistening with oil and beautifully grilled sea bass.
Honestly though, the small plates are so good (and generous) you could forgo the mains. Halloumi saganaki drizzled in fragrant truffle honey and tangy mango chutney; intensely smoky, gently spicy sivri peppers; and a juicy tomato salad are the perfect companions for that heavenly babaganoush.
Desserts are less inspiring. We plumped for the baklava cheesecake, which arrived as a dense funnel of baked cheese wrapped in a layer of phyllo pastry and was way too heavy to finish off an already hefty meal.
The Drink
The restaurant’s best kept secret is Under The Counter – an atmospheric ‘listening’ bar hidden downstairs, where an emormous hi-fi system soothes the overstuffed patrons perching on high top stools.
It’s a brilliant spot, and as chef Kemal tells us, one with a story (his father had the same hi-fi system). The music intermingles with the sounds from the open kitchen at the far end, and you’re face-to-face with the bartenders as they mix your drinks, which is great if you want to pick up some mixology tips.
Of course, there’s some very good wine on the list to go with your dinner (including bottles from Greece, Georgia and Turkey), but your focus should be on the house cocktails.
Start with a refreshing Istanbul (gin, elderflower liqueur, apple juice, cucumber) or skip dessert and come down to sip on a smoky, caramel-heavy Kazandibi and listen to the immaculate vinyl selection.
The Value
I know, anywhere that describes itself as serving ‘sharing plates’ can quickly get dangerous. One minute you’re snacking on £6 olives and flatbreads and the next a £150 bill arrives on the table.
Happily, the portion sizes at The Counter are large enough to make the sharing concept just about affordable – small plates (from £8) are comfortably medium, and the prices aren’t astronomical for a prime spot in Soho.
Even larger mains start from £22, and some of the more eye-watering delicacies – a £55 slab of tuna wagyu for example – are designed for sharing between at least two.
The Service
Polite, efficient, and laid back, the team feel well-versed for such a recent opening. Our waiter Alejandro was a joy – chatty, fun, and seriously knew his stuff, talking us through the menu and making spot-on suggestions on everything from small plates to wine. When this guy tells you he’ll bring you a cocktail you’ll love, trust him.
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